Friday, January 30, 2009

"Ngisuthi" = I'm full

I thought I would fill you in on an average day with my homestay family.
 I get home from class around 5, and my mama welcomes me at the door and asks if i want tea. Baba (my father, who coincidently is also named Stephen) is already settled in front of the TV (which does not turn off in any Zulu family until bedtime, if then) with his tea. I set my things down in my bedroom and put my wet shoes in the bathroom. My mama comes in and tell me, "I made your bed." To which I reply, "Did I not do it correctly?" 
"No, the sheet below was showing here. Don't worry, you will learn."

None of this is mean, by the way, it's all good natured and humorous. Homestay mamas treat their guests as their own daughters, and my mama wants to make sure that after my 5 weeks with her I will be prepared to keep a house and raise a family. That's the women's role, think of South Africa sort of as America post-desegregation, but pre-bra-burning feminine stage.
As I drink my tea, two boys (who are related to the family I think? I believe one is my brother, but he doesn't live in the house, so I'm not sure) ask me questions about America. They ask if I know Jasmine, last year's homestay daughter. She lives in Atlanta. I explain the East/Midwest/West division and draw maps in the air for them. They ask about my iPod and laptop. Then we discuss the digestive system, which my brother (?) has learned about in school.
We go down the street to buy bread, and by the time I am back there are about 5 children hanging on me. The streets are filled with people. 
With the original two boys we go back into the house, and mama gives me an ear of corn- but called mealies, and slightly more starchy, and only boiled not buttered. I take forever to eat it while we watch TV.

After a while dinner is ready (last night she showed me how to make the chicken curry and had me make the salad). The boys have gone back to their house for dinner, so it is only me, mama and baba. We have leftovers from last night, chicken curry on rice (delicious), as well as pumpkin and beetroot salad (pickled beet pieces). But there is a LOT. This is an intimidating plate of food, and I probably have half the amount they have. My mama was afraid I didn't get enough last night (I definitely did), so I got way more tonight. They finish and I am trying, trying to finish, because not to is impolite. Painfully full, I finish. She offers that she has "German peanut butter" that I can eat for lunch or snacks or whatever, and I timidly say that I don't really eat peanut butter much, but thank you very much. I felt really bad, maybe I should have just sucked it up? 
She pulls out a 3 liter, unopened bottle of Coke and says "We thought you might like to have some of this!" I don't drink Coke normally, but this was such a nice gesture that I said "Sure!" and downed a glass. I gathered up the dishes to wash but Generations was coming on.
Generations is the soap opera that comes on every weeknight, prime time. EVERYONE watches it and it's addicting. There is this girl who got stabbed in the face and a girl who had a miscarriage and ohoh- it's in Zulu (with subtitles). At the end mama said it was good to watch Generations to learn what I want (as in from a relationship). 

She had me watch Generations before doing the dishes. After that we washed up, and went to bed. There's not really a roof like we are used to, it's more like covered rafters, so when someone has on a light, there is a light on for the whole house. So... after Generations, everyone goes to bed! Everyone wakes up early here- like 5am. Me sleeping to 6:15 is pretty late. 

In the morning I am the last up- mama leaves as I am getting up. I wash in a tub, with a wash basin in it, which I'm still figuring out how to get clean in. Also I'm expected to wash twice a day, as a female child. 

This weekend we're going to church. It's Anglican, and everyone wears long white dresses and wraps their heads in white. I'll let you know how it goes, but it should be interesting. African singing is beautiful.
 

Thursday, January 29, 2009

sigh

Homesick for the first time. I think being separate from the rest of the group for the first time is taking some getting used to. I guess I'm just missing the support system I have at home. That's all.

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Homestay family!

Last night I moved in with my homestay family. In Zulu culture you address anyone of your mother's age as "mama" and anyone your father's age as "baba." Boys your own age are called "bhuti" (brother) and girls are "sisi" (sister). My family is only mama and baba, most other people had lots of kids or a gogo (grandmother). It is the mama's duty to raise the children, especially the daughters, and she shows the daughters how to cook and keep a house for when she has a family. It's also a matter of pride to fatten up your homestay daughter- I've been told most students take about 10 pounds of South Africa back with them. 
She cooked us chicken curry and showed me how to make it. I made the salad. We watched soaps and talked about Obama while it was cooking, and I showed them pictures of my family. Everyone here LOVES Obama and is super-interested in him. They have their own election coming up in April, but no one seems as interested in it as in our's. 
In the city, almost everyone speaks English, especially the younger generation. Most older people are more comfortable with Zulu, but are fluent in English. Everyone is very soft-spoken, I had to get my mama to speak up a few times. 
I have my own room, very nicely furnished. There's no roof like we no it- there's one to keep the rain off but not one to keep sound from drifting over the walls (made of concrete- floors too). My family has a bathtub (but no hot water), and you use a washtub in it to bathe. The bathroom (with the bathtub and sink) is separate from the toilet.
Sunday I'll be going to Adventist church- we will wear long white dresses and cover our heads in white as well. 
More later, class is starting.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

To catch you up...

So I've been here for 5 days (i think). I've seen a ton already so it'll be hard to totally catch you up, but I'll touch on a few things. We flew into Johannesburg (aka Jo'burg) on 23 Jan. (18 hour flight, I think I am finally finally over my jet lag as of today) and day before yesterday drove into Durban, which will be my home base for the next 4 months. We stayed in a hostel in Jo'burg, another one here that we moved out of this morning. So a few things about South Africa...
-It's hot. And humid.
-People really do carry things on their heads (weirdest thing I've seen so far is a car door)
-Everybody is generally very friendly and helpful, though Africans find it hilarious when white people try to speak Zulu (which I have had 2 classes of) 
-It's gorgeous. The bushveld (savannah) is wide open and undeveloped almost all the way from Jo'burg from Durban (6 hours).  Lots of big mountain things that are now plateaus because of erosion.
-All the birds and plants are different. Ants and mosquitoes are the same. 
-We went to the shore of the Indian Ocean when we got to Durban and got stung by little bitty jelly fish (just an annoyance, nothing to worry about).
-The Indian Ocean has the most gigantic waves I've ever seen. There are also huge huge ships that come into the Durban port.
-Women carry their babies on their backs, secured with blankets tied around them.
-African singing is probably the most heavenly thing I've ever heard and the dance is stunning.
-The roads are lined with market stalls everywhere you go, selling fruit, scarves, jewelry, cigarettes, everything. Lots of people. 
-Money is in Rand, 10 Rand = 1 US dollar. You can buy a decent dinner at a casual restaurant for about 35 Rand ($3.50 US). 
-Carrying water bottles is just an American thing. Nalgenes/Aluminum bottles etc. make you a target for mugging. Most South Africans just drink cokes. 
-HIV/AIDS rate is about 1 in 4. 
-School kids all wear uniforms in solid colors (e.g. a navy blue dress with matching hat) and walk around in groups. It's the cutest thing ever.

Okay. Enough for now. Feel free to post questions. I'll let you know how the homestay move-in goes!